Baku – Azerbaijan | Travel Guide
A three-hour flight from Dubai transports us to the Caspian region in the north and we land to yet another destination for 2018 – Baku!
Azerbaijan, or Baku for that matter, was quite a last minute decision for us. It was my 30th birthday; yes the big Three O, and there was no way I was going to be a plain Jane about it. While I won’t go into details about what our initial plan was, or why it didn’t work out, I will definitely tell you why Baku was our next best choice.
Travelling to Baku
Located in the Caspian region of Asia, Azerbaijan is one of the few places which, like its neighbors, has gained a lot of popularity among tourists in the past couple of years. Located just three hours from Dubai, Azerbaijan is situated in the same time zone as UAE and offers visa on arrival to UAE resident visa holders. We opted to travel with Fly Dubai, which is not only one of the preferred carriers to fly to Baku, but also, their timings are just right for the smart traveler.
The 8 am flight on Friday got us to Baku by 11 am, and we were arrived at the hotel a little over an hour later by 1230 pm. Since we had less than 3 days to explore Baku and around, we had been a little proactive with our planning, and hired a tour guide who could help us make the most of our super-short trip. Although we were pressurized with time constraints and had to work our trip around a public holiday (and my birthday), let me warn you, three days is in no way enough time to take in all the beauty that this city has to offer. If I could have it my way, I would have added at least one day more to my trip.
My Impression of Baku
The capital of Azerbaijan, this urban city is filled with architectural marvels that showcase the melting point of modern meets traditional. Modern construction stands tall alongside restored century-old buildings, giving the city a very unique look. With its fashionable local crowd buzzing through the streets, this city almost feels like the Paris of Asia with high end fashion brands like Roberto Cavalli, Emporio Armani, Burberry, Gucci and the like – a very common sight.
Our Hotel
Our previous trip – Europe – was filled with stays in budget hotels which my luxury-loving Dubaiite soul was not too fond of. For this trip though, we decided we would indulge in a little comfort, if not luxury, and opted to stay at Intourist Hotel Baku.
A little off the center, but located bang on the main road, this Autograph Collection by Marriott property is quite famous across the city, with signboards leading you to the hotel. It’s one of those places whose name you can tell the cabbie instead of having to explain the area and guide him through the lanes. Intourist is certainly one of the better hotels and surprisingly not too pricey for the kind of comfort it offers. The hotel features an all-day restaurant with a 24-hour bar, a spa (book in advance) and a cozy library as well. The wood-rich interiors of the hotel blended in just right with the freezing temperatures outside.
Day 1
As soon as we arrived at our hotel, which was around midday, we were checked in and the first thing we decided to do was grab some shut eye. This happens a lot when you’re travelling on Friday mornings, you just need that couple hours of sleep before you’re ready to head out to enjoy the place. After our nap we ordered some room service (which was great btw) and then put on our wintery clothes to explore the main town. The temperatures in Baku were pretty low at this time of the year – ~ 11°C at 8 pm – which means I had to carry a lot of jackets and boots and I was not complaining one bit. We had landed that afternoon and were only exploring the city on our own that night, but the next two days would be way more exciting! We didn’t have our tour guide with us on the first evening so we simply cabbed it down to Nizami Street. The cab ride cost us approximately AED 5, which was really surprising since everyone I know had told me cabs are too expensive in Baku. False.
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Nizami street is located in the central area of Baku and is a true representation of the old and new. With traditional stone streets paving up to modern malls, fancy chandeliers lining up the wide streets and dozens of stores on every side of the road, this area is a complete package for shopping and dining. Right from restaurants and cafes to high end fashion, international brands, souvenir shops and much much more, this place has everything you’ll ever need. Since it was pretty cold at that time of the year, it made the walk all the more pleasant. Filled with tourists and locals alike, this is a must visit in Baku.
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After a lot of walking (and freezing) we stopped by at the petite Rea Cafe in Nizami street for dinner and drinks. Not a very traditional one, this cafe was all about burgers and fries, and we came across the best combination of #fries and mushrooms ever! Not only did the cafe have an extensive selection of cocktails coffees, burgers, salads and sandwiches, which made it a perfect stop for a chilled evening out, but moreover the drinks were so affordable, a cocktail was equivalent to a mere AED 20.
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After dinner, we were pulled into a sweet store that sold a variety of teas and Azerbaijani honey. Quite a famous one we’d heard, we ended up buying a couple of tea varieties and a bottle of honey for back home. Leave it to them to pack it for your plane ride, and they’ll get all the bubble wrap necessary to make sure your honey is intact.
Day 2
This was going to be super exciting, and we were really looking forward to the long adventure filled day ahead. We started our morning with the lovely buffet breakfast at Intourist’s 24 hour restaurant and got ourselves all layered up to stand the cold. On Day 2, we had our tour guide with us, which means we had a car to put our stuff in, and the freedom to stop and start as per our convenience. Dressed up as almost Red Riding Hood (and wearing 2 layers of tees!), we head out in the chilly 8 degree temperature towards the villages on Baku.
Our first stop was Juma Mosque in Shamakhi that was first constructed in 744 AD after which it has gone through various renovations under the rule of many kings. The architecture of this mosque, very similar to a lot of Egyptian mosques, is spacious and airy, while the inscriptions and designs on its ceilings are inspiring. During our stop at the mosque, it started raining, which dropped the temperatures even further, so we quickly decided to get back in our cocoon and head over to the next stop.
Driving through foggy roads what felt almost like a path to heaven, we arrived at Shamaxi Silent Lake. This gorgeous restaurant located on the hills must be a spectacle during the blooming months of springs, but for us it was a sight filled with clouds and fog and autumn brown trees. Almost looked like a scene out of a Yash Chopra movie! Unable to seat ourselves outdoors, we went into the warm and comforting restaurant and picked a table with a brilliant view. We warmed up to a hot cup of Azeri tea with a special local cherry jam. Very sweet, I could swear the jam almost tasted like cherries dipped in honey, but I was told there was no honey in it. The Azeri tea was quite similar in taste to a typical Sulaimani tea.
Next up on the way to Qabala, our driver stopped for a quick photo op at a gorgeous spot in #Qabala and suggested we do this slow mo vid for a really dramatic shot. I loved those autumn colors and vibes! If only I could have SRK from Mohabbatein playing his violin in the background 🎻
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After all those leafy adventures, we set sail (almost) towards the Nohur Gold Qebele (also known as Lake Qabala). This beautiful town is located approximately 4 hours from Baku and is generally 10 degrees cooler than the city. I was almost expecting it to snow, but instead we were greeted with a constant drizzle that lasted throughout our boat ride. Definitely chilly, this was a great opportunity for the Dubai kid in me to don those winter jackets, boots, gloves and cap! Despite the weather, we decided to get our limbs and joints working and opted for a pedal boat to explore the lake. Yes, it was really difficult to pedal with all those chills, but the view, coupled with being in the center of the water with fog all around you, made the effort worth it! Qabala is a must visit in Azerbaijan, and totally worth a stay too. We’re strapped for time, but when you plan your holiday, make sure you include atleast a one night stopover in Qabala.
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Finally we arrived at the main destination of the day – Qabala. Starting off from the lowest point from Qafqaz Tufandag Hotel, we took a few cable car rides up to the top and the 10 manat ride was way more worth than what it costs. There were bits and parts of the ride where nothing was visible and it just added to the whole excitement. Once we reached the top, I was greeted with the most gorgeous view I have ever seen in my life – SNOW! 🗻 Having grown up in a desert country, with annual trips to the tropical humid Mumbai, I had never seen snow before this in my life. And well, it was like heaven! Seeing snow for the first time in my life was definitely a tick on my checklist and an accomplishment just one day before I turn 30. I didn’t get to touch and feel the snow though, and I’m hoping I don’t have to wait another 30 years for that! We spent a good amount of time in the 2 degree weather at the highest point, clicking pictures and admiring the beauty of nature, but eventually it got too chilly and our hands started to freeze so we decided to head back down. This one needs to be on your to-do list for Azerbaijan even if you’re there for a really short time like me.
Here I am on top of Qabala overlooking the snow capped mountains from above the clouds!
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We were quite hungry by this point, so our driver, who loves Indian food, took us to the most frequented spot by tourists – Raja Restaurant. Founded by an Indian man who married an Azeri woman, this restaurant serves the best of both cuisines. Indian is quite regular for us, so while our driver chose a spicy Indian dish, we asked him to recommend some classic Azeri dishes for us. We had a Marci Sorbasi lentil soup, followed by Lula Doyma lule kebab and Kand Toyuqdan Sac chicken on sadj. The lule kebab were my favorite. We ended our meal with a Karak tea and walked back through the clouds towards our ride back to the city. Quite a scary one, the 3 hour ride had a lot of portions that were so foogy, there was zero visibility. Reminded me of my previous summer in Armenia.
Once back at the hotel, we decided to change up and spend the night with drinks and bites at their in-house restaurant. We stayed there for quite bit, admiring views of the ferris wheel across the street and the calm sea beyond. And that was all there was to Day 2.
Day 3
This day was very special for me. It was my last day in the 20’s. We started with the usual breakfast at the hotel and set out for an entire morning and afternoon of city touring. We started at the “I love Baku” spot outside the Heydar Aliyev Center. While we didn’t go inside the museum, we did manage to get a glimpse of some of their activations outside and also got a lot of good clicks.
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Next up was the Ateshgah or Fire Temple in Baku. Frequented in the past by many different religions, the tiny rooms surrounding this temple have so many stories to tell. From Zoroastrians to Hindus, there are elements of various religions present inside the temple.
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After the fire temple, it was time for another fiery spot – Yanar Dag or fire mountain. This is the place of never-ending fire. Yes, the fire never goes off in this spot, and for me it honestly felt so good in that chilly weather. The presence of natural methane gas is responsible for this fire, and it is considered a very important site. Anyone trying to put out this flame (which doesn’t go off come rain or snow), can be fined by law.
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For lunch, we stopped at Quzu Qabirgasi Kebab Restaurant, and I was more than happy to fill my belly with those juicy kebabs. With a crunchy salad and cherry juice on the side, we indulged in grilled chicken and meat kebabs before heading to our next location.
The Dagustu Park or Highland Park as it is commonly known is located at a high point in the city, hence its name. A walk through Martyr’s Lane dedicated to martyred soldiers of war leads to the Eternal Flame Memorial. Behind the memorial is a viewpoint that offers lovely views of the layered streets of Baku and the sea. We spent a few minutes at this spot and caught a glimpse of the Flame Towers on our way out.
Following the Martyr’s Lane, we stopped for a quick visit of Bibi Heybat mosque which is located near the port. Before heading back to our hotel and getting ready for celebrations, we made one last stop of our evening at the famous Azerbaijan Carpet museum. Home to scores of different styles of carpets, this museum takes you through the history of carpet making, the different types of carpets and how the tradition has stayed alive over the centuries.
Birthday Eve Dinner
Our driver had been kind enough to recommend the 360 bar in Hilton to ring in my 30th, and had made the bookings for us the previous day as well, so we were quite excited about it. We had a rather quick dinner at the Sky Grill Terrace in Hilton, which I kind of didn’t enjoy too much (my prawn pasta was too fishy), but what followed at the 360 Hilton Bar was more than anything I could ask for on my 30th. A revolving restaurant, 360 offered unparaled views of the night sky and thanks to their upbeat music, dim lighting, and fab drinks, it was perfect.
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Last Day in Baku
We didn’t really do much on the last day, except got up, had our usual breakfast and packed up to leave back to Dubai. The ride to the airport was a saddening one, simply because I loved this place so much, it was hard to accept I was leaving it so soon. But thanks to the easy immigration and short haul flights, I knew I will be coming back very very soon. At the airport we had our lunch at a local restaurant and I did some duty free shopping since after all it was my birthday and gifting yourself is a thing I totally believe in!
Details
Destination: Baku, Azerbaijan
Currency: Manat
Visa: Visa on arrival for UAE resident visa holders (USD 26 per person)
Dates of visit: 16-11-2018 to 19-11-2018
Airline: Fly Dubai
DXB > GYD: Departs at 0800 from Terminal 2, arrives at 1100 in Baku
GYD > DBX: Departs at 1550 from Baku, arrives at 1850 in Dubai, T2
Hotel: Intourist Hotel Baku Autograph Collection
Temperature: Ranges between highs of 15 degree C to lows of 7 degree C
Places visited: Baku, Qabala
Mode of transport: Taxi, Private tour guide
