Yerevan & Tbilisi | A tale of two cities | Travel Guide
Quite an unplanned and impromptu trip, Yerevan was a backup plan for one of my friends was not being able to get a Schengen visa for an otherwise fully planned Greek holiday. After confirming UAE residents were granted visa on arrival in Armenia, we thought this was the best option for a quick summer getaway. We had booked a guide for our entire trip, so all the transfers and tours were pretty much covered.
We landed quite early in the morning and were greeted by our happy guide. On the way to the hotel we exchanged some AED for Armenian currency and decided to get some rest before we could set pace for the rest of the day.
We chose Boulevard Hotel for our stay in Yerevan. Located in the center of Yerevan, it was a chic, compact and, in my opinion, one of the better hotels I’ve stayed at outside UAE. Ours was a one bedroom apartment with a compact living space, a comfy double bed and a fully functional bathroom. I say fully functional for one simple reason – the bidet. Call me old fashioned, but being brought up in UAE has got me really used to this device also known as a shattaf, hand shower and such. And while I went through a lot of hotels on booking.com (a LOT), Boulevard was the only place which offered this option and clearly specified it in their list of amenities. Other amenities were on point too – bathrobes and towels, hair dryer and iron, two TVs, microwave and kettle and the list goes on.
P.S. They had many electric points but they are all designed for 2 pin round plugs, so don’t forget your travel plug adaptor.
We had informed the hotel we’ll be checking in early and they not only accommodated that request, but also offered us free breakfast along with the early check-in.
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After the breakfast we took a quick walk around the neighborhood, taking in all the cool weather we could over the next 3 days. After that we headed back to the hotel to get dressed up for our first day out in Yerevan.
Day 1 – Yerevan City Tour
We started the city tour with a visit to Victory Park and Statue of Mother Armenia. Symbolizing peace through strength, this monument is located on a hill and offers unparalleled views of the Yerevan city. The pedestal at the base of the statue is home to the Mother Armenia Military Museum with exhibits dedicated to wars over the years. You can also catch a glimpse of war vehicles in the area.
Next stop was the Manuscript Museum or Matenadaran. Housing the world’s largest repository of Armenian manuscripts, this museum doubles up as a research institute. The museum has been named after the inventor of the Armenian alphabets Mesrop Mashtots, whose statue sits at the entrance is of building.
Following the museum, we got back to the city to experience art and culture. We walked through one of the famous streets lined with modern forms of art that led up to our next stop. While we visited multiple locations on this half day tour, what intrigued me the most was Cafesjian Center for the Arts. This cascade complex structure built into a museum showcased a unique collection of modern contemporary art pieces that fell in line with the vision of its founder Gerard L. Cafesjian. Let me know what you think of this artistic architectural piece behind me!
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After that heavy dose of some of the most creative art pieces I’ve ever seen, we decided to lunch. Our guide suggested we try some local dishes from the SAS food court located within a supermarket. Our guide quite obviously wanted to stuff us, so he picked up some baked potatoes topped with chicken and cheese along with a local delicacy of tonir (oven) baked lavash folded and stuffed with meat and a huge kebab wrap. Thanks to the slightly warmer afternoon, a bottle of orange juice made the perfect refresher along with our meal.
To burn off all that lunch, we headed next to a local market that had multiple stores selling some traditional Armenian handicrafts as well as souvenirs. I am not one to wait until the last day of my trip to pick up keepsakes, so I went a little crazy shopping for friends and family back home. After that long day touring some of the prominent spots in Yerevan, we decided to rest the guide for the evening (and the long next day), and headed back to the hotel to rest for a bit till we could step out for dinner.
Our guide had recommended some nearby places that were accessible on foot, so decided to walk around ourselves and eventually find a nice dining spot to settle in for the night. We walked through the streets of our locality, admiring the beauty of late sunsets and the rythmic hustle-bustle of this peaceful city. Through this picture I tried to capture the essence of Yerevan and its people. Flaunting a very chilled out and relaxed lifestyle, Yerevan loves to move at its own sweet pace. No one’s rushing anywhere, no one’s even working I suppose. Everybody I came across at around 7 pm in the evening looked like they were on a holiday. And it was definitely a working day that day. One more thing which I (an Equatorian) found quite surprising was that the sun doesn’t set until 8.30 pm. This photo was taken at 7.45 pm and to me, it honestly looked like 3.30 or 4 in the evening.
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We walked by the Freedom Square near the Armenian Opera theatre and stopped by to watch the dancing fountains. Although not as big as Dubai fountains, this colorful piece in the center of the city is a spectacle to watch, and attracts a lot of crowds. We stood along with the locals, families and fellow tourists to feel the spirit of the city as they all came together to watch the water show.
We walked a little further into the shopping district that had a good selection of restaurants and chose to end our evening with dinner and drinks at the Italian restaurant La Piazza. So far I was loving my stay here and I had a big surprise for the next day.
Day 2 – Dilijan
Next day was a really early start. We were off to a different country. Yes! A whole new country and we had a lot to squeeze in one day. We started with an early morning drive to Lake Sevan where we clicked a few pictures before stopping at a local bakery to fill up on some freshly baked breads and croissants. Then we set pace in the direction of the Armenian border.
On our way across the border, we stopped over at the picturesque town of Dilijan to admire its architecture. This is a city that looks like it is set in history, thanks to its stone houses and roads. Surrounded by mountainous landscapes and lush greenery, here summers are as low as 10 degrees and winters are comparatively warmer than the rest of Armenia. Moreover, the air here is so clean, pure and void of any pollution, it’s the perfect escape from city life. As for me, I was just standing there posing for this pic, trying not to shiver, while I was dressed up for summer amidst 12 degrees.
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Also Day 2 – Tbilisi, Georgia
Here’s the surprise I was referring to earlier. I went to Tbilisi, Georgia! What started off as a trip to Armenia, quite unexpectedly, but delightfully gave me the opportunity to go for a full day tour to my almost holiday destination, Georgia (and at a fraction of the price), making my holiday “a tale of two cities”. Although a lot of people may complain about a lot of things, I feel blessed I am a resident of UAE, because without that pink visa in my passport, neither of these countries would have been possible. Moreover, I even managed to get a glimpse of Azerbaijan on the way! Checking off a lot of things on my list 😊
Our first stop in Georgia was lunch! We stopped at the famous spot which houses the I Love Tbilisi sign and took some touristy snaps there before heading to the restaurant upstairs which is known for their Khachapuri (cheese pie) and Khinkali (dumplings). We ordered one classic khachapuri with cheese and egg, one meat khachapuri, one portion of potato and cheese khinkali and one portion of chicken barbeque (like kebabs). All these along with drinks and some playtime with the cutest cat made for a generous meal and prepped us for all the touristy things we were about to venture on.
After lunch we hopped onto a cable car from Europe Square and took a ride upwards all the way to Sololaki Hill to see the statue of Mother Georgia. Also known as Kartvlis Deda or Kartlis Deda, this monument was constructed in 1958 and has become quite the symbol of Tbilisi. After a quick photo op with the backdrop of the city, we trickled our way down the narrow alleys and stone paths on foot towards the Sulfur baths.
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Here’s another postcard shot for you. How often would you walk in to the center of a city expecting to find a hidden waterfall? That’s possible in Tbilisi. The waterfall behind me is one of the hidden attractions of old Tbilisi and is located in the Legvtakhevi district, very close to the Abanotubani sulfur baths. The pathway leading to the falls comprises of tall rock formations and a narrow river channel that flows through to the heart of the old town. The rocks almost make the waterfall seem like a secret treasure. There’s also a wooden ‘love’ bridge on the way, decked with padlocks that represent promises of togetherness and undying love sealed forever. The chilly winds and low temperatures took away my courage to soak my feet in the water, but I am glad I captured this sight in my memory and on camera!
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I did leave with the regret of not being able to experience one of their authentic baths or massages, but well, there was a lot more to check off our list in a very short time, so we walked down a few lanes, picked up a couple of souvenirs and drove towards our next stop – Tsminda Sameba.
Behind me is the Tsminda Sameba in Tbilisi, also known as the Holy Trinity Church. Following the Georgian Orthodox teachings, this marvelous structure is not only the third tallest Orthodox cathedral in the East, but also one of the few churches with a very large total area. Built in a traditional Georgian architectural style, this church stands tall in the center of the city, watching over all the houses and buildings around it. It is a well-known pilgrim destination as well as a popular tourist spot. Make sure to carry a stole or pick one from outside the church as you will be required to cover your head while inside.
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After paying our respects at the church, we set sail for the Mtatsminda Park. The way to this park is through a furnicular which is sort of a train ride but one that takes you to elevated spots in the city. A very common transport mode in that region, it was definitely an exciting one. The most breathtaking part of the ride was when oncoming trains from two directions meet in the middle and carefully switch tracks to move on.
We got to the Mtatsminda Park and walked around the area while also taking in all the views this high spot offered. This golden tree somehow reminded me of Game of Thrones. The sheer magnificence and the golden hued shimmer connects it spot on to the royalty exhibited on this global phenomenon of a show. And seriously, doesn’t it look like something from High Gardens, or maybe Meereen? But hey, no philosophies behind it, this golden tree is a pretty attraction that decks up the fountain located in the center of the park surrounded by cafes, food kiosks and such.
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Before leaving the park, we decided to indulge in a sweet treat with rolled up ice cream. Loved the cooling apricot and peach flavors. The park was our last stop for the day, and we had a long long drive back to Armenia. We hadn’t accounted for the fact that we would need to apply for visa again to re-enter Armenia, but luckily we had enough money on us, so we managed.
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Day 3 – South Armenia Tour
Another long day, this was our chance to explore the countryside of Armenia along with its mountains, caves, monasteries and churches. We thankfully didn’t have to leave as early as we did the previous day, so we had some time to grab some breakfast at the hotel.
Our first stop for this day was the Khor Virap monastery. This place gave me the opportunity to free a captivated pigeon. They say freeing the pigeon fulfills your wishes. And as far as mine are concerned, it’s to be like this bird and fly around the world. Let’s hope these travel wishes come true in the near future! Apart from this kind act, the monastery offered breathtaking views of the Ararat mountain – the holy mount for Armenians. This mountain, although located in Turkey, is of prime importance to Armenians. It is also said that Noah’s ark had landed on this mountain making it so religiously inclined. Moreover, the monastery revealed quite a few interesting stories about Saint Gregorius and the religion of Christianity, which are worth a Google search.
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Our next stop involved tasting authentic Armenian wines at the Hin Areni Vineyards located in the Vayots Dzor district. Lined with huge oak barrels, we got to learn about the fermentation process and what makes this grape beverage so special in Armenia. Their variety included the classics of white, red and rose, along with some unique fruity flavors like pomegranate, that all carried different dates. Hin Wineries are one of the most well known wine factories in Armenia.
A short drive down the road brought us to the Norvank monastery. This complex features the Surb Astvatsatsin Church, also known as Holy Mother of God, which is recognized for its distinct series of narrow steps that lead to the elevated entrance of the church. To the north west of this church lies another Surb Karapet Church. It features khachkars as well as inscribed gravestones and carvings on its floors and walls. Both are a living testimony to the grandeur architectural feats from the 1200s – 1300s.
After all the mountain adventures, and before entering the caves, it was time to stop for a quick bite. Our guide took us to a quaint home kitchen where we enjoyed Lavash bread wraps along with tomato juice and gorgeous valley views.
Day 3 – South Armenia Tour – Tatev
A few hours later, we got to the main highlight of the day – Tatev. Getting to this place was by far the most exhilarating experience of my trip. We started with an amazing 12-minute cable car ride to Tatev which was worth every second. At a length of 5,752 metres, Wings of Tatev is the Guinness Book of World Records certified longest double track aerial tramway in the world. The cost of a two way cable car ride is 5000 Drams (~10 USD) per person.
The ride seemed a little scary in bits and pieces, and more if you are afraid of heights, but this was definitely not one to be missed. On the other side was the Tatev village which highlighted yet another beautiful monastery along with some picturesque views of the valley and an oil mill that dates back to the 10th century. We spent quite sometime learning about the oil mills, taking postcard worthy pictures and finding solace amidst the walls of the monastery.
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Since this was our last stop for the day, we followed it with a hearty meal at Tatevatun Armenian restaurant while braving the 12-degree C temperatures on their outdoor terrace that offered breathtaking views of the Tatev valley. After the meal it was time for our long drive back to Yerevan. The road to the city was dark and filled with fog and rain, and we reached after midnight. Tired after a really long day, we were happy to have accomplished so much in such a short time. But we still had half a day remaining to explore the city on our last day.
Day 4 – Zvartnots
Our morning started with a relaxed breakfast at the hotel. Although not a very early start, but we certainly wanted to squeeze in as much as we could, so we quickly packed up all our bags, checked out from the hotel and set out towards the first stop for the day.
The Noy factory in Yerevan is well known for producing brandy, wine and vodka. This factory tour included visiting a lovely museum, followed by their underground distillery which houses the oldest lift, and ended with a cognac tasting. Armenia is quite famous for a variety of spirits including wine, vodka and cognac. Tourists often take back aged cognac to enjoy during cold winter months. Although they have a shop right outside the factory, you can also buy these from multiple shops across the city.
After drinks it was time to soak up all the spirit with a hearty last day lunch. We went back to the same SAS food court we had lunched at on Day 1, and enjoyed a similar combination of lavash wraps, manakeesh and baked potatoes.
Next part of our tour on our last day in Armenia included a visit to three churches in the Holy City of Etchmiadzin. The first one was the Saint Hripsime Church, followed by Saint Gayane Church, and finally Mother See of Holy Etchmiadzin which was undergoing some renovation during our visit.
The Saint Gayané Church in this picture houses the tomb of an abbess by the same name. Their story is quite a tragic one, where Saint Gayané along with Saint Hripsimé and 38 other nuns were tortured and martyred by Pagan Armenian King Trdat. Today a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this church was constructed in the year 630, partially renovated in 1652, and stands strong to this day offering warm and peaceful vibes to visitors and worshipers alike.
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This one was a quick stop on the way to the airport and this particular capture at the ruins of Zvartnots temple offered a contrast of sorts. Although the newly married couple were there for a post wedding photo shoot amidst the ruins (which by the way, makes a lovely location), for the philosophical person in me, it symbolized the beginning of something new from the ruins of something old. Almost like a circle of life, a Phoenix born from the ashes. Okay, enough of that deep thought.
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We also visited a museum at Zvartnots, which highlighted the history of the area and the cathedral that existed within those ruins a long long time ago. Ultimately it was time to end our roller coaster rise and bid farewell to our guide who had been a lovely friend to us over the last 4 days.
Armenia is certainly worth a visit, especially if you are a resident of United Arab Emirates, which means you get a visa on arrival. A lot of people combined Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Azerbaijan during one single visit, but all 3 countries deserve their own exclusive 3-4 days. While I have checked two off my list, a longer visit to Georgia, and its ski resort, is definitely on my list.
One important thing to remember: Armenia and Azerbaijan do not share friendly relations, so you might not want to combine those two on your trip unless you are travelling through the neutral ground Georgia. If you have visited a certain Armenian controlled area known as Nagorno Karabakh (which has its own visa), you will be denied entry into Azerbaijan. More importantly, either of the countries might question you about the details of your visit to the other at the immigration, but that’s only for their reference, and you can simply state you were on holiday (unless you were not ;))
Details
Destination: Yerevan, Armenia + Tbilisi, Georgia
Currency: Armenian Dram, Georgia Lari
Visa: Visa on arrival for UAE resident visa holders (USD 26 per person in Armenia)
Dates of visit: 12-07-2017 to 15-07-2017
Airline: Fly Dubai
DXB > EVN: Departs at 0155 from Terminal 2, arrives at 0505 in Yerevan
EVN > DBX: Departs at 1715 from Yerevan, arrives at 2020 in Dubai, T2
Hotel: Boulevard Hotel, Armenia
Temperature: Ranges between highs of 33 degree C to lows of 19 degree C in Yerevan
Places visited: Yerevan, Tbilisi, Tatev
Mode of transport: Private tour guide
